Flea and Tick Control That Actually Works

Flea treatment is where a great many pet owners spend money without solving the problem, then conclude the product does not work.

Usually the product works. The approach does not, because it addresses the wrong part of the infestation.

Here is what is actually happening and how to deal with it, along with the tick advice that matters in this region.

Most of the fleas are not on your pet.

This is the fact that changes everything. The adult fleas visible on an animal represent only a small proportion of the total population, commonly cited as around five per cent.

The remainder exists as eggs, larvae and pupae in the environment: carpets, floorboard gaps, bedding, sofas, the car, and anywhere the animal rests.

Eggs laid on the pet fall off into the home. Treating only the animal removes the visible adults while leaving the reservoir untouched, and new adults emerge continuously.

Pupae are particularly stubborn, capable of remaining dormant for months and hatching in response to vibration, warmth and carbon dioxide, which is why infestations sometimes appear suddenly when a house is reoccupied after a holiday.

Treat every animal and the environment.

Effective control requires treating all pets in the household simultaneously, including any that appear unaffected, and treating the home.

Household sprays containing an insect growth regulator break the life cycle by preventing eggs and larvae developing. Vacuuming thoroughly and frequently removes eggs and larvae and stimulates pupae to hatch so they encounter treatment.

Empty the vacuum outside afterwards. Wash all pet bedding at the highest temperature the fabric allows, and remember the car if the animal travels in it.

Expect the process to take several weeks. Continuing to see occasional fleas during that period does not mean it has failed.

Never use dog products on cats.

This is the most important safety point in this article.

Some flea treatments for dogs contain permethrin, which is highly toxic to cats. Cats poisoned by permethrin can suffer tremors, seizures and death, and it is one of the most common serious poisonings seen in veterinary practice.

Cats can be affected without ever having the product applied to them, simply by grooming or sleeping against a recently treated dog in the same household.

Always read the label, never split a dog dose between pets, and keep treated dogs separate from cats until the product has dried. If you suspect exposure, contact a vet immediately, as this is an emergency.

Prescription products generally outperform shop ones.

Products sold in supermarkets and pet shops vary considerably in effectiveness, and resistance to some older active ingredients is well documented.

Veterinary products are dosed by accurate weight and generally use more effective actives, and many combine flea and worm treatment in a single product.

Whatever you use, apply it correctly. Spot-on treatments go onto skin, parted at the back of the neck where the animal cannot lick, not onto fur. Applying to fur is a common reason for apparent failure.

Some animals are allergic.

Flea allergy dermatitis is an allergic reaction to flea saliva, and affected animals react severely to very small numbers of fleas.

Signs include intense itching, hair loss particularly along the back and base of the tail, scabs and red inflamed skin.

These animals require rigorous year-round flea control rather than treatment only when fleas are visible, and they frequently need veterinary treatment for the skin reaction itself.

Ticks need different handling.

Ticks attach to feed and are most common in long grass, woodland and areas grazed by deer, sheep or cattle.

In the North East, that includes much of Northumberland, Kielder, the Cheviots, the North Pennines and coastal grassland, and ticks are increasingly found in urban parks too.

They can transmit Lyme disease and other infections to both animals and people, and the risk of transmission rises the longer a tick remains attached, so prompt removal matters.

Remove ticks properly.

Use a proper tick removal tool, which costs very little and is worth carrying if you walk in the countryside.

Slide the hook under the tick against the skin and twist steadily until it releases. Do not pull straight out, and do not squeeze the body.

Never burn a tick, cover it in petroleum jelly, or apply alcohol. These methods can cause the tick to regurgitate into the wound, increasing infection risk.

Clean the area afterwards and monitor it. If the animal becomes lethargic, lame, feverish or off its food in the following weeks, mention the tick to your vet.

Check your dog after every countryside walk, paying attention to the head, ears, neck, armpits and between the toes. Check yourself too.

Year-round rather than seasonal.

Fleas were historically a summer problem. Centrally heated homes have made them a year-round one, and infestations frequently peak in autumn as heating goes on.

Ticks are similarly active across more of the year than they once were, with activity in mild winters.

Consistent year-round treatment is considerably easier than dealing with an established infestation, and cheaper.

Share your thoughts.

Have you ever had a flea infestation that took months to clear?